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Carolyn and Tim's Arctic Adventure
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Posted at: 11:00pm , 16 Jul 2024 By James Eacott

Carolyn and Tim's Arctic Adventure

After counting down the days to our Arctic Cruise with Aurora Expeditions, the day had finally come for us to set that early wakeup call so that we could make our way to London Heathrow.

SAS Airlines were fabulous and sailing through security within an hour of arriving left us with plenty of time to enjoy a breakfast and coffee before boarding. We connected via Oslo to get to Svalbard and the town of Longyearbyen - the northernmost town on earth with a population larger than 1,000.

We arrived at around 9pm and took a short coach transfer to the wonderfully appointed Funken Lodge. This boutique style 4* hotel is one of the best in town. We immediately noticed the need to adapt to the 24 hour daylight - this was something few had experienced previously (blackout curtains were a must). How strange to be going to bed in broad daylight!

We had two nights in Longyearbyen and enjoyed some excursions including visiting some local museums which shared the history of Svalbard and the North Pole as well as learning about huskies and coal mines.

We finally bid farewell to our tour guide as we boarded The Sylvia Earle which was to be our home for the next 12 nights. This expedition ship is one of the best in the business and has travelled extensively around the The Arctic, Americas and Antarctica.

Unsurprisingly, it was evident early on that we were going to experience some bone-chillingly cold weather, with temperatures frequently around zero. Interestingly, this was made to feel even cooler the closer we came to the huge and visibly striking glaciers. We had a real treat to see the third biggest ice field in the world at Bråsvellbreen - simply the most incredible amount of ice I have ever seen.

The zodiac excursions to shore and morning visits to bird cliffs were great fun (though occasionally wet), but it's worth being aware it does get choppy the further from the coastline you go. We hugely appreciated the knowledgeable crew members on hand to explain the local wildlife, flora and fauna - we've learnt so much about what life is like at 78° North.

Speaking of wildlife, the highlights for us were spotting polar bears, walrus, seals and whales. Tilt your gaze skyward and you'll see a range of bird species including auks and guillemots, but remember this is proper wilderness and no sightings are guaranteed. We were lucky to see polar bear up-close, sunbathing walrus and numerous high and low flying birds.

On the ocean, we plowed through sea ice, which I have never seen before (did you know the sea freezes at -1.8°C?).

There were some fascinating historial sights too - we visited a 17th century whale hunting site which was big business back in the day, as well as grave stones for those who didn't get home from such trips. 

After we departed Svalbard, we cruised for three days at sea in hope of finding the Norwegian volcanic island of Jan Mayen. This remote island is only accessible to very few invited guests and is a military base for scientific research.

On this journey, we spotting Finn whales but the most captivating view was actually watching our ship plough through the sea ice, which became increasingly thick as we approached our next port of call on the coast of East Greenland. However, as the ice was so thick and fragmented, we were unable to make a landing. All was not lost, however, as we enjoyed a couple of hours on the zodiac floating around some very impressive ice sculptures. The water was so calm which meant we were able to walk on the thick sea ice - a really cool thing to do and something I have never experienced before.

That evening the whole ship enjoyed a beautifully prepared BBQ which was enjoyed on the top deck. A superb day.

As we weren't able to make a landing on Greenland, it meant we could spend more time in Iceland. The captain had to make some last-minute changes to the itinerary and after a couple of days at sea we arrived at the western fjords of Iceland with plenty of time to see humpback whales and some stunning waterfalls.

Our wonderful cruise ended in Reykjavik where we had time to explore the city before our flight home.

About Aurora

This type of cruise is very different to your typical cruise. I've noted what I think are the main differences below.

1. This can be viewed as an educational cruise with no set itinerary.

3. You leave the ship via Zodiac with wet landings on beaches.

4. No casinos or late night entertainment.

5. You can take part in crew-hosted lectures.

6. There is a daily briefing for the day(s) ahead, but this is flexible due to weather conditions.

7. Weather plays a huge part in where the ship can and cannot travel, so don't be disappointed if the crew have to make last minute changes.

Total numbers on board can be around 120 people. There are two restaurants - one is a buffet option, the other a la carte (where reservations can be made on the day only). On the pool deck, you can relax in the jacuzzi with incredible views or soak in the pool. There is also a sauna and a gym. Spa treatments are available on request.

As for the cuisine, as you'd expect this plays a big part of ship life and the crew deliver great service and quickly learn your names so it is great having that formality removed. Considering the ship doesn't stop to take on fresh supplies, the food is superb - we loved the live cooking station at lunch which prepared everything in front of your eyes. The fresh soups and salads were great. 

The wine list is comprehensive and, for those preferring Dom Perignon, Crystal or Krug champagne is available. The wines served with dinner are included as part of the overall package are most enjoyable and, when you do have or need to pay for a drink, it is not over priced compared to UK prices.

We've returned to the UK with memories to last a lifetime and are eager to share more with anyone interested in visiting the Arctic. So, if you'd like to know more, or are interested in creating your own Arctic adventure, please get in touch with us!

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