Newfoundland & Labrador: Canada’s Hidden Gem

I recently travelled to Newfoundland & Labrador, the most easterly province in Canada. I had heard bits and pieces about it over the years, but this was my first visit. I thought it might be worth writing up my notes in case anyone is considering going.

Getting There

I flew direct from Gatwick to St. John’s with WestJet. The flight time was five hours three minutes on the way out and four hours eighteen minutes on the way back, which was quicker than I expected (I’ve had longer delays on the M25). The aircraft was a 737-800, seating about 180 people. They offer both Premium and Economy. Food and drink were included, which was handy, but there are no seatback TVs. Bring a book, or download something before you go, unless you particularly enjoy staring at the back of the seat in front of you. The time difference is –3.5 hours, so there’s no real jetlag, and with the exchange rate at over 1.80 CAD to the Pound, I found prices reasonable — especially compared to certain UK coffee chains.

About the Province

Newfoundland & Labrador is about the size of California, or twice the size of the UK, but has only about 500,000 residents. Around 180,000 live in St. John’s, the capital. The province was a separate country until 1949, and many locals have Irish ancestry, which you can hear in the accent. You’ll also find plenty of Irish pubs — more than you might expect for a place this size, although I didn’t get around to visiting all of them.

St. John’s

I stayed at the Sheraton St. John’s. It’s in a good location, with large rooms and a breakfast buffet that did the job. The city is famous for its colourful houses, especially a street called Jelly Bean Row, which looks like it’s been painted with leftover paint from several different projects. The harbour is busy with working boats and cruise ships. I also visited Cabot Tower, built to commemorate John Cabot’s landing in 1497. The views are excellent, although the walk down to the harbour afterwards will make you realise how steep hills can be.

Wildlife Trips

I joined a whale and puffin trip with Gatherall’s, about a 40-minute drive from St. John’s. We saw whales and a large number of puffins, although both were keeping a respectful distance — as, frankly, was I. Later in the trip, I drove about 160 miles to Trinity, staying overnight at the Fishers’ Loft Inn in Port Rexton. From there, I took a rib boat tour with Sea of Whales Adventures. Being in a smaller group of 12 meant we could get closer to the whales, which was exciting, if slightly damp. Trinity also has historical buildings like Hiscock House and several walking trails, in case you want to stretch your legs before dinner.

Bonavista Peninsula

Before heading back to St. John’s for my flight, I visited the Bonavista Peninsula. This is where John Cabot landed, marked with a statue. There’s also a memorial to the 1914 Sealing Disaster, which lists the names of those lost. Here I saw puffins from only a few feet away, which was a highlight. Whales could also be spotted from the shore. From April to early June, you might see icebergs here too, although not at the time of my visit.

Who It Would Suit?

Newfoundland & Labrador is ideal for people who enjoy wildlife, history, walking, and places without large crowds. It’s also good if you prefer a slower pace of life — nobody here seems to be in much of a rush, and that’s quite refreshing. It’s not a flashy holiday, but it’s interesting, easy to reach from the UK, and the people are friendly. I enjoyed it, and while I may not be rushing back immediately (I have the lawn to sort out), I’d recommend it to anyone looking for something a bit different.